fbpx
Skip to main content

By Odonchimeg Batsukh, Reporter

Read this story in

Batbileg Sodbaatar, his wife Narmandakh Ochirbat, and their daughter Ariunsolongo Batbileg, 7, drink salted milk tea and eat fritters cooked in oil, as they discuss the reception of international travelers to their home in Ikhtamir soum.

October 30, 2024

IKHTAMIR SOUM, ARKHANGAI PROVINCE, MONGOLIA

The vast Mongolian grasslands, dotted with free-grazing sheep, horses and goats, stretch endlessly, evoking freedom and a connection with nature. As tourists worldwide increasingly seek authentic travel experiences that immerse them in local cultures, this country has become one such destination.

Sheep and cattle graze in a field in Ikhtamir soum, Arkhangai province.

Now, a government-sponsored program offers a way to connect even more deeply with the life of everyday Mongolians, many of whom still live traditionally in gers – round tents. The program brings tourists to the families on the Mongolian plateaus and steppes, where they’re hosted by herders in specially-made gers and enjoy local food. While tourists get to experience the authentic culture they seek, herders, whose traditional nomadic lifestyle is increasingly threatened by climate change and environmental challenges, gain an opportunity to diversify their income.

Narmandakh Ochirbat serves “süütei tsai,” a drink she prepared with cow’s milk, salt and ghee, to tourists at her home in Ikhtamir soum, Arkhangai province.

Like most countries, the coronavirus pandemic hit hard Mongolia’s tourism industry. In 2019, just over half a million people visited Mongolia, but by 2021 that number was about 33,000 people. The government pushed to revive the tourism industry, in part by announcing that 2023 through 2025 would be the “Years to Visit Mongolia,” with the goal of attracting 1 million visitors per year. During this time, citizens from 34 countries are exempt from visa requirements for up to three months, and additional direct flights from the United States and other countries were arranged — as well as a refund of value-added taxes.

Herdsman Batbileg Sodbaatar poses for a portrait at his home in Ikhtamir soum, Arkhangai province.

Nearly 600,000 people visited in 2023, according to government data, and brought 4.4 trillion Mongolian togrog (1.2 billion US dollars) to the economy.

About 1,000 tourists have participated in the Herder Camp program since it started in June, says Ganbold Davaasuren, executive director of Cradle of Ancient Nomads Tourism Association. The Herder Camp program was initiated by the Arkhangai provincial government and has been implemented in collaboration with this nongovernmental organization.

Sitting in the ger of a local herdsman, Juho Jeong, from South Korea, sips “süütei tsai,” a drink made with cow’s milk, salt and ghee. She came to Mongolia to immerse herself in nature, see the life and culture of nomadic herders, and more importantly, as she says, “see how the stars look at night.”

Travelers from South Korea arrive at Batbileg Sodbaatar’s ger in Ikhtamir soum, Arkhangai province. 

“We have beautiful nature and a rich nomadic culture here, so my family and I have decided to capitalize on it,” says herdsman Batbileg Sodbaatar, Juho Jeong’s host, who lives in Ikhtamir soum in central Mongolia’s Arkhangai province.

Batbileg is one of 60 nomadic herdsmen who have opened their homes and land to tourists who want to immerse themselves in traditional life on Mongolia’s steppe, experiencing rich traditions and simple joys without the burdens they face back home.

Batbileg Sodbaatar prepares guest gers to receive tourists at his home in Ikhtamir soum, Arkhangai province.

Even today, 34.8% of all households in Mongolia live in gers.

Unlike traditional gers, the ones for the tourists feature green covers and sustainable sanitation solutions, provided by the non-governmental organization implementing the program, with the condition that the herders must pay back in cash in three years.

An eco-sanitary facility serves tourists staying in guest gers at herdsman Batbileg Sodbaatar’s home in Ikhtamir soum, Arkhangai province.

To stay in a ger with four beds and complimentary breakfast, tourists pay 160,000 togrog (47 dollars) per day. For a herder, that’s the equivalent of selling one small sheep. Anything in addition, such as horse riding, a sought-after experience for tourists, is available for an extra fee.

Bayarbileg Batbileg prepares horses for tourists to ride at his family’s home in Ikhtamir soum, Arkhangai province.

Herders like Batbileg recognize that their nomadic lifestyle is under increasing threat. Having herded livestock for over three decades, Batbileg has seen the direct effects of climate change on his livelihood. Harsh environmental challenges such as floods and the persistent dzud (extreme winter conditions) have led to the loss of many of his cattle. “We can no longer rely solely on herding to make a living,” says Narmandakh Ochirbat, Batbileg’s wife.

Bayarbileg Batbileg teaches a traveler from South Korea how to milk a cow while So Hyun An takes a picture in Ikhtamir soum, Arkhangai province.

Between 1994 and 2000, Batbileg occasionally provided services to visitors, though it was not a consistent source of income. This year, Batbileg’s family fully embraced the opportunity. Batbileg oversees camp operations while his wife, with the help of their daughters, prepares meals. Their older son manages the horses, and their middle daughter tends to the sheep.

Narmandakh Ochirbat prepares “süütei tsai,” or milk tea, made with cow’s milk, salt and ghee, as her daughter, Ariunsolongo Batbileg, 7, closely watches at their home in Ikhtamir soum, Arkhangai province.

While tourists enjoy traditional activities, this initiative also addresses critical environmental concerns. Tourism income for herders can reduce overgrazing, which contributes to pasture degradation, a threat to both local livelihoods and global food security.

Home camp hosts Batbileg Sodbaatar and Narmandakh Ochirbat along with guest travelers from South Korea enjoy a dinner of milk tea, baked dumplings, carrots and cabbage salad at their home in Ikhtamir soum, Arkhangai province.

However, these cultural exchanges are not without challenges. A big hurdle is managing the solid and liquid waste generated by tourism, says Undrakh Zagarkhorloo, a researcher specializing in sustainable development and institutional economics related to livestock and tourism, at the Mongolian University of Life Sciences in Ulaanbaatar. In addition, she says providing tourism services fundamentally changes herders’ daily lives, requiring families to adapt to new practices and languages.

Despite these shifts, Mongolians see in this destination tourism a hope for a more sustainable future.

Sheep graze on a hillside above the gers where Batbileg Sodbaatar and his family live in Ikhtamir soum, Arkhangai province.

Editorial Team

Reporter:

Editor:

Photo Editor:

Fact Checker:

Copy Editor:

Publication Date

Republish